I was a bit hard on China in yesterday’s post about toxic sludge left over from refining rare earth elements (I was actually angry at myself for not being a natural businessman, not at the Chinese for ruining the Earth with industrial poisons). Today, therefore, let’s cleanse our palettes by looking at some exquisite treasures which were found in a medieval Chinese tomb! The grave was discovered by construction workers in Nanjing in 2008, but is just now being showcased to the world. It belonged to “Lady Mei” a noblewoman who died in 1474—just 18 years before Columbus discovered the new world. Lady Mei was 45 when she died. Her epitaph reveals that she was a concubine who was married off to the Duke of Yunnan when she was an “unwashed and unkempt” maiden of 15. Lady Mei outshone the Duke’s two senior wives by bearing a son, but her biography also indicates she had a lively mind and no small share of strategic and political genius. Reading between the lines, it seems like she ran the Duke’s vast household (and possibly Yunnan) for twenty years (during the strife and court turmoil of the feuding Zhengtong and Jingtai Emperors and the mad incompetence of the Chenghua Emperor no less).
You can read what is known about Lady Mei’s fascinating life here, but for today’s purposes let’s look at some of the otherworldly jewelry found in the tomb.
Ming dynasty art is my favorite Chinese art! The artists of the Song dynasty were more inventive (and perhaps had greater raw talent). The artists of the Ching dynasty had a more eye-popping palette and crafted designs with more ornate flourishes. The artists of the Tang dynasty were more cosmopolitan and outward looking. The artists of today certainly know how to make ugly wretched junk which celebrates the dark magic of marketing. But the artists and artisans of the Ming era were unsurpassed at finding perfect proportions and color combinations. They blended the diverse regional and international elements from around all of China into a perfect lavish synthesis of styles which is instantly and indelibly Chinese.

A fragrance box with gold chain from the tomb of Lady Mei (“lotus petal” decorations and Sanskrit in gold with sapphires, rubies, and one turquoise. (Courtesy of Chinese Cultural Relics)
Look at how Central Asian decorative motifs mix with Southern Asian religious designs all within a rubric of ancient patterns from the Yangzi heartland! The bold yellow of the jewels is perfectly matched by the equally rich colors of carved rubies, sapphires, cats’ eyes, and turquoises.
Each of the pieces of jewelry looks like something the queen of heaven could be wearing in a Chinese myth. These pieces are hairpins, bracelets, and a perfume box, but they have the splendor and unrivaled workmanship of crowns. Indeed, Lady Mei might as well have been a sovereign. Contemporary Yunnan has approximately the same population as contemporary Spain. The Yunnan of Lady Mei’s day was likewise probably about the same size as Spain just before it unified and took over the Americas.
It is astonishing that these treasures have been lying in the earth, waiting for some developer to build a supermarket or condominium. Lady Wei’s opulent grave goods are exquisite—the undying glory of Ming craftsmanship still dazzles like nothing else.
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May 13, 2015 at 10:53 PM
AManCalledDada
Love to know the story as to why some of the gems are missing.
May 14, 2015 at 12:04 AM
Wayne
Don’t look at me–I certainly don’t have them!
May 14, 2015 at 11:30 AM
beatrix
Interesting.
I doubt Lady Wei’s ‘fragrance box’ was ever used for any sort of perfumery.
The 6 petaled lotus pendant is rather a portable shrine representing the most beneficial mantra “Om mani padme hum”. Each stone & ‘Sanskrit symbol” on the wheel & lotus are representative of a syllable in the mantra-
“The mantra Om Mani Pädme Hum is easy to say yet quite powerful, because it contains the essence of the entire teaching. When you say the first syllable Om it is blessed to help you achieve perfection in the practice of generosity, Ma helps perfect the practice of pure ethics, and Ni helps achieve perfection in the practice of tolerance and patience. Pä, the fourth syllable, helps to achieve perfection of perseverance, Me helps achieve perfection in the practice of concentration, and the final sixth syllable Hum helps achieve perfection in the practice of wisdom.
“So in this way recitation of the mantra helps achieve perfection in the six practices from generosity to wisdom. The path of these six perfections is the path walked by all the Buddhas of the three times. What could then be more meaningful than to say the mantra and accomplish the six perfections?”
—Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche
Perhaps Lady Wei was Buddhist?
It was quite fashionable for Chinese elites to retain Tibetan & Indian spiritual teachers & gurus in this era . (It’s always nice to have a thulkhu or some reincarnated deity about to ‘discuss’ things ‘n’ such.)
I have similar pendants in my gallery in Nepali silver & semi precious stones. If you have the cash I can get you a 22K gold with whatever precious (or faux) stones you can afford in about a week.
Lady Wei’s flame hair ornament is a common design for pendants of Tibetan goddesses also. The ‘agni’ (flame) seems to be sybolic of female energy & it looks darned kool too. Google the “Kathmandu Kumari living goddess” & you’ll see the little girl chosen as Kumari wearing a pendant similar to this.
The gold hairpiece with the double phoenix suggests ‘samsara’ the continuous cycle of death & rebirth also.
Two gold cuff style bracelets are commonly worn by married women in most Himalayan & Tibetan tribes (one on each wrist).
The branch & tendril hairpins are in an ‘almond’ shape, still commonly seem in traditional south Asian jewelry today.
Well, that’s your Asian art lesson for today kiddos!
Beatrix
May 14, 2015 at 11:33 AM
beatrix
Darn-
samara = samsara
If you have the cash I can get you a 22K gold replica with whatever precious (or faux) stones you can afford in about a week.
May 14, 2015 at 1:25 PM
Wayne
That sounds awesome! [checks in coffers] Hmm, I have six US nickels and some sort of hummingbird coin from Trinidad. Maybe I’ll postpone my bespoke jewelry shopping till next month.
May 14, 2015 at 10:44 PM
Wayne
Dangit–I also wrote a better response to your cogent and eloquent explanations, but WP has eaten it or hidden it or something. It definitely seems like Lady Wei had Buddhist tastes! Just look at her jewelry… I was especially interested in your explanation of the portable shrine. Having such a thing made of solid gold indicates a strong propensity toward Buddhism (but perhaps a misunderstanding of Buddha?).
Also, I particularly love the agni decoration and I am looking forward to reading up on the Kathmandu Kumari living goddess (although that sounds like an upsetting subject in many other respects–what sort of medieval child-star reality show society are you all running out there?)